Traditional versus modern Moqueca — which wins?

I've now had Moqueca prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises manioc flour farinha in the way Brazilian cuisine reflects indigenous, Portuguese, and African culinary heritages in equal measure. The robust and filling character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Rio de Janeiro boteco bar context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Brahma lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.