Traditional versus modern Acarajé — which wins?

I've now had Acarajé prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises black beans in the way Brazilian cuisine reflects indigenous, Portuguese, and African culinary heritages in equal measure. The smoky and umami-deep character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a churrascaria rodizio steakhouse context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. açaí bowl with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.