Traditional versus modern Salteñas — which wins?

I've now had Salteñas prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises charque dried llama meat in the way Bolivia preserves some of the most ancient Andean food traditions including chuño freeze-drying which dates to pre-Inca times. The subtly spiced character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a market lunch counter context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. singani grape spirit with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.