Traditional versus modern Api — which wins?

I've now had Api prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises chuño freeze-dried potato in the way salteñas are distinct from Argentinian empanadas with a juicy broth filling. The subtly spiced character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a traditional Andean home context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. chicha de maíz with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.