Traditional versus modern Beef Kala Bhuna — which wins?

I've now had Beef Kala Bhuna prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises panch phoron five-spice in the way Bengali cuisine shares roots with West Bengal India but has distinct Muslim food traditions. The pungent from mustard oil character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Sylheti tea estate context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. hot sweet tea with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.