Traditional versus modern Pakhlava — which wins?

I've now had Pakhlava prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises quince in the way tea drinking is a ritual — black tea served in armudu pear-shaped glasses accompanies every social encounter. The richly layered character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Baku meykhana restaurant context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. doshab grape molasses with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.