Traditional versus modern Locro — which wins?

I've now had Locro prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises beef asado cuts in the way Argentina consumes more beef per capita than almost any other country. The richly caramelised character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Buenos Aires steakhouse context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Quilmes lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.