Traditional versus modern Chimichurri — which wins?

I've now had Chimichurri prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises dulce de leche in the way the asado is an Argentinian social institution as much as a cooking technique. The intensely beefy and smoky character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a family quincho barbecue area context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Quilmes lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.