Traditional versus modern Alfajores — which wins?

I've now had Alfajores prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises Malbec wine in the way the asado is an Argentinian social institution as much as a cooking technique. The herbal and garlicky character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a Sunday asado in a friend's garden context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. Quilmes lager with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.