Traditional versus modern Mac and Cheese — which wins?

I've now had Mac and Cheese prepared traditionally and in a modern interpretation. Both are interesting. The traditional version emphasises sharp cheddar in the way regional BBQ styles from Texas to Carolina are matters of fierce local pride. The sweet and tangy character is more pronounced and direct.

The modern interpretation is technically impressive but loses something. The a classic diner context for the traditional version adds meaning that plating alone can't provide. root beer with the traditional version made more sense than with the modern. Traditional wins, but the modern is worth trying once.