Good country, exhausting tourist industry

Norway is a genuinely beautiful and interesting place. Lofoten Islands is worth every superlative thrown at it. The rakfisk is legitimately excellent. midnight sun in summer gave the trip real depth.

What I struggled with: the tourist infrastructure around the headline sites in Oslo is relentlessly commercial and weather is unpredictable is a genuine friction point. You can feel the gap between authentic Norway and the packaged version sold to tourists. The authentic version wins, but you have to work to find it.