Tirana surprised me completely on this trip to Albania

I went to Albania with modest expectations and left completely won over, largely thanks to time spent in Tirana. The city has a pace and character that travel guides undersell. Found a great spot for byrek on day two and went back every day after that.

Butrint ruins was the big planned experience and delivered as expected. But it was extraordinary warmth toward foreigners that became the unexpected highlight — something I stumbled across rather than planned. 7 days was just right for getting below the surface without rushing.